The woodwork on the hulls is almost done, and once I scrape some of the runs off the bottom it will be ready for paint. The tops need one more coat and they will be ready also. The holes are cut for the access ports but I will need to install them as the last step because I have to reach as far as I can (and a bit further) to place the nuts for the main frame mount on the inside. Can't reach far enough with the ring in place. I am going to paint the hulls white and add some graphics over that.
I had these frame mounts water jet cut from 2 x 2 x 1/4 alumium angle and they are bolted though the deck and the stringers (still don't know the right word for this) which is doubled for 12 inches at these points. Using four #10-24 SS screws per mount with 1/8 stainless steel backing plates and locking nuts on the inside.
I had planned to make the rudders myself but the equipment is not available at this time so I bought two rudder kits from Seaward Kayaks, very close to my home town on Vancouver Island. And, since I bought two they gave me a break on the price thank you very much!!! These are the larger model from the double kayaks. I will probably use just one 90% of the time but when the water gets rough I will be more concerned about handling than speed. Most of the time I will need very little turning input so I will only lower the one rudder as much as I need to. I have made two rudder mounts out of fibreglass and will drill the holes and mount them temporarily to check fit and alignment.
Nice boots...!
I have the frame under way now. I ordered 3" x .120 wall aluminum square tube but they delivered
2 1/2 instead and then informed me that they couldn't get the other, don't believe but.....So I made the main frame out of that. Since the hulls will be at least 6 feet apart the frame would be pretty awkward to manage and transport in one piece. So I made the ends removable and built them from 2" x .120 square tube. They will be pinned in place with 1/2" round aluminum pins, both to the main frame and to the frame mounts on the hull. I will use 80 duro rubber to take up the space between the frame and the ends. This will allow a small amount of movement without torquing the mounts too much. I hope.
For now the boat will be set up with one rider although all the drive line and seat components will be on one bar which can be moved or doubled at any time. This is shown with the seat off one of my home built recumbents. I had planned to use a lowracer seat but but found this to be more comfortable. I have lots of bike parts laying about so I am using a Tiagra triple crank and one sprocket on the Mitrpac 2:1 gearbox up front. And a front derailler. This will be a 3 speed machine at first anyway. One speed for cruising, one for going up the face of really big waves, and one for going down the back side....... Plus, if I make the spread between gearing smaller that a normal bike I can do more testing with less wrenching. I will use the derailler underneath and a chain tensioner up top. This will do two things, allow me to have some capacity to span gear ranges, but could also be calibrated to indicate torque. That way I will be able to read speed from a GPS, torque from this apparatus, and rpm from the input shaft on the gearbox. There will also be the capacity to lock the tensioner to allow reverse. I am going to use a long curved shaft but it will be supported close to the prop. I am going to use a thin aliminum or plastic blade down to an impregnated bushing for the shaft. A lever will raise the prop until it just clears the water so I can avoid rocks, beach pull ups, get it out of the way when using a kite or sail, and clean off weeds, baby seals, and other stuff. So with 4 lines to control the rudders, 4 more to raise and lower, 1 more to raise the prop, 1 cable to the derailler, 1 to raise the beach umbrella, 1 to raise the pirate flag, and I plan to use a kite with more lines, and probably a sail with more lines...................if I used an electric trolling motor all this fuss would be eliminated........
